1 This program was part of the Hawke Research Institute at the University of South
Australia, and I thank them for the funding. I learned much from colleagues work-
ing in the area of rural studies there, especially Jen Cleary, Lia Bryant, and Guy
Robinson. My thanks to Lisa Slater for her help and company on research travel
around South Australia. Some of the areas we studied included the politics of food
production and consumption; regionality within the global; food security; Indige-
nous food enterprises; terroir, including water, soil, climate; and new markets, old
2 Thank you, Janet Dibb- Leigh.
3 Australian Research Council Discovery Project, “Sustainable Fish: A Material Anal-
ysis of Cultures of Consumption and Production,” dp140101537.
4 I have learned much from my student Kate Johnston’s doctoral work on tradition
and culture in Italian tuna fisheries.
5 fao (2015b); see also Watson (2015).
6 Because theirs is very much a team project, when I cite publications from this
project I use the term “Mol and her team” as well as the name of the person who
happens to be the first author on any individual article.
An Oceanic Habitus
1 See my (Probyn 2012) argument about eating “roo” as well as Emma Roe’s (2006)
article about “things that become edible” for other takes on this. In Nicholas Röhl
and Greta Scacchi’s campaign Fishlove, this is precisely what famous and used
- to- be famous celebrities do—cuddle fish (see http: // www .fishlove .co .uk / ).
2 It goes without saying that choice is the byword of neoliberalism. While I am
wary of how neoliberalism yokes together issues of very di≠erent orders with an
overwhelming emphasis on the actions of the individual—the power of the fork—I
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