ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
A
cademies are homeworkers too, albeit privileged ones. We re-
flect and write at home, alone in front of blank pieces of paper
(yes, some of us still cherish the pen and pencil) and screens.
But we also fan out to the archives and libraries and create our own
networks. No project this long could have taken place without incur-
ring many intellectual, material, and moral debts among colleagues,
friends, and students.
The first week I got to New York in 1984, on a German Marshall
Fund Research Fellowship, I was lucky to be warmly welcomed into
the small circle of garment industry scholars by Roger Waldinger,
with whom I have kept up discussion (and sometimes disagree-
ments) over all these years. Bob Lazar, at the
ILG WU
Archives-
then still down on Seventh Avenue-shared his knowledge of the
collection and suggested files I never would have found on my own.
Back in Paris, I attacked the Archives nationales and found that
a twentieth-century project was not quite as easy as sticking to
the period before World War I. But I learned, like so many others,
the fears and joys of the terms "derogations" and
"a
titre excep-
tionnel." With a small group of sociologists, a garment industry
study group "Travail et quartier" was formed, funded by grants from
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