Surfing is fun! Anyone who has dedicated a lifetime—or even five minutes—to
playing in the ocean is quick to acknowledge that, at its most visceral level, rid-
ing a wave is a unique thrill. As the push of a wave takes over, the human body
cheats gravity ever so briefly, rendering the rider weightless, the body’s fitness
challenged to harness raw aquatic energy and convert brute natu ral force into
the sensation of gliding across time and space toward no par ticular destination
but the wave’s culmination, lapping onto the shore, smashing into the rocks,
or folding back into the ocean’s currents. To ride a wave is to steal a fleeting
glimpse into what it might be like to live as a human intermediary between
land, sea, and heavens, to live without resolve and yet embrace some intangible,
inexpressibly beautiful purpose. And so, surfing engenders a romantic attraction
and emotional entanglement with nature, beauty, per formance, the body, and
Introduction
dexter zavalza hough- snee and
alexander sotelo eastman
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